Liang Junde Unveils the Mystery Behind "Jin Jun Mei"

　　Recently, at a tea-tasting event titled "Junde Authentic Jin Jun Mei Summit" held by a company in Xiamen, Liang Junde, the master tea maker and founder of Jin Jun Mei—who hadn’t visited Xiamen in nearly seven years—unveiled the true essence of the mysterious "Jin Jun Mei." On the sidelines of the event, Liang Junde sat down for an exclusive interview with our newspaper.

　　The "Jin Jun Mei"–led "black tea effect" is gaining widespread popularity among enthusiasts, yet this trend still aligns perfectly with the original mindset of Mr. Liang Junde, the founder of Jin Jun Mei—he remains committed to crafting exceptional teas with care and integrity. Even when conditions don’t allow it, he refuses to expand raw-material production or compromise on quality by substituting inferior ingredients for premium ones. The veteran tea artisan, who takes great pleasure in creating innovative new teas, reveals that this year he’ll introduce a curated lineup of black teas, including offerings like Jin Xiaozhong and Xiaozhong Hongpao, targeting the mid-range market segment with confidence.

　　The market regulation for Jin Jun Mei is somewhat challenging.

　　After Jin Jun Mei skyrocketed in popularity, the "Jin Jun Mei" craze suddenly blossomed across Xiamen’s market—literally "thousands upon thousands of pear trees in bloom"—with prices ranging from a few hundred yuan to over 10,000 yuan. As a result, the black tea market has become quite chaotic. In a way, Liang Junde admits he was somewhat "taken by surprise" by Jin Jun Mei’s rapid rise to fame since last year, especially given how blindly consumers in Xiamen have embraced the tea—a development that left him genuinely astonished.

　　Liang Junde reiterated at the tasting event that the extremely limited availability of Jin Jun Mei is an undeniable fact—currently, the amount of Jin Jun Mei advertised on the Xiamen market far exceeds the annual production capacity of its place of origin, Tongmuguan.

　　Liang Junde said that his company, Junde Tea, doesn’t have many agents across China—primarily concentrated in cities like Xiamen, Putian, and Fuzhou in Fujian Province. Even in Xiamen, there’s only one sole distributor. Faced with the current widespread proliferation of counterfeit "Li Gui" versions of Jin Jun Mei, Liang Junde admits he feels powerless—for now, there are no effective measures in place to regulate the red tea market. He urges consumers to learn how to spot the real thing and approach Jin Jun Mei with a rational, informed perspective.

　　Several premium black teas are targeting the mid-range market.

　　Liang Junde, with his dark complexion, appears somewhat gentle and honest. He jokingly remarks that this is the result of years spent mastering the art of tea-making. Approaching his sixties, Liang Junde absolutely loves crafting new teas—every time he successfully develops a fresh variety, he becomes so thrilled that he can’t help dancing with joy, often staying up all night in sheer excitement.

　　Recently, Liang Junde has developed several varieties of black tea, including Golden Rose, Golden Xiaozhong, Xiaozhong Hongpao, and High Mountain Wild Tea, all of which will be launched on the market this year. According to reports, these teas are priced around 1,600 yuan per jin on average, targeting the mid-range segment of the market.

　　“Compared to the high-end market, I place more emphasis on the mid-range segment, as its consumer base is far broader.” The shy Liang Junde lights up with enthusiasm when he talks about new teas, almost as if he’s discussing his own cherished treasures. “Personally, my absolute favorite is high-mountain wild tea—I even believe it’s rarer and more precious than Jin Jun Mei. In fact, if I skip a day without sipping it, I start feeling restless and uneasy!”

　　Liang Junde said he won’t focus his main efforts on Jin Jun Mei—Zhengshan Xiaozhong remains the company’s primary business direction. "No matter which tea we make, quality is always the most critical factor."

　　Applying for a certificate of origin

　　Liang Junde said, "Many things can be compromised, but when it comes to critical issues, we must hold firm to our principles." Earlier, he had intended to register the trademark for his company's Junmei Tea—but unfortunately, the "Junmei" brand had already been registered by a company in Jiangxi. While this situation left him feeling frustrated, it only strengthened his determination to protect his own brand.

　　Liang Junde told reporters that he is working tirelessly to apply for origin labels for his company's products, a process that will cover not only Jin Jun Mei but also traditional-style Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong and other offerings.

　　Liang Junde’s tea garden boasts lush green tea bushes alongside vibrant mountain flowers. These tea trees, varying in height and nestled next to the forest, yield a unique, delicate fragrance of Tongmu pine when brewed under Liang Junde’s expert craftsmanship. Deeply passionate about his hometown’s tea gardens, Liang Junde emphasizes that only exceptional mountains and pristine waters can produce top-quality tea. He adds that successfully applying for and registering the origin designation would not only clearly define the geographical boundaries of this renowned black tea but also enable unified quality control—giving consumers even greater confidence in its authenticity.

　　How to Appreciate Jin Jun Mei

　　Eye (visual standard):

　　1. Appearance: The Zhengshan Jin Jun Mei tea boasts a slender and delicate appearance, thanks to the diverse range of unique tea varieties cultivated in Tongmu Village—many of which produce naturally small, slender tea buds. Additionally, the meticulous all-hand-rolled processing method contributes to its highly curved shape.

　　2. Tea Color: The liquor should have an amber hue. An orange-yellow, clear, and bright color is considered superior, while a reddish, cloudy, or dull tone is less desirable. When brewing authentic Lapsang Souchong Jin Jun Mei tea, the dry leaves typically display a striking blend of golden yellow, brown, silver, and black tones. For example, using 100ml of water with 2.5 grams of tea: if you steep it in water heated to 80°C–90°C, the resulting tea will emerge after about 1 minute, appearing reddish and slightly cloudy. However, if you use boiling water at 100°C, the tea will be ready in just 5–6 seconds, revealing a rich, golden-yellow liquor.

　　3. Leaf Base: A vibrant, antique-copper color at the leaf base is preferred, while reddish-brown is considered secondary.

　　Nose (olfactory profile): Dry, fragrant, sweetly refreshing, and deeply invigorating. When brewed, it releases a subtle honeyed aroma with a lingering, elegant tea essence.

　　Taste (Taste Profile): Zhengshan Jin Jun Mei tea boasts a sweet, smooth liquor with no astringency, offering a fruity sweetness that’s soft, rich, and velvety in texture. It’s highly resilient to multiple infusions, easily enduring 13–15 steepings.