The History and Culture of Gongfu Black Tea

　　Chinese people are famously known for their exceptional ability to enjoy tea. Historical records show that tea-drinking culture in China dates back at least 4,000 years. As early as the ancient text *Er Ya*, it was noted: "Tea picked early is called 'cha,' while that gathered later is referred to as 'ming.'" Even the *Book of Songs*, specifically its "July" chapter, mentions the practice of picking tea leaves. By the Han Dynasty and beyond, tea drinking gained widespread popularity—but it truly flourished during the Tang Dynasty, when tea gatherings and tea banquets became common social events. It was during this era that Lu Yu penned his seminal work, *The Classic of Tea*, which systematically codified the art and philosophy of tea preparation. This groundbreaking book not only popularized tea culture but also earned Lu Yu the revered title of "God of Tea," a legacy he continues to hold in Chinese tradition. According to *Chaojia Fengyue Ji*, "Gongfu tea—its meticulous brewing methods—are directly rooted in Lu Yu's *Classic of Tea*; yet the accompanying utensils are even more refined." Based on this description, it seems that the practice of Gongfu tea likely emerged sometime after the Tang Dynasty. Interestingly, although modern dictionaries like the *Cihai* include an entry specifically defining "Gongfu tea," the English word "tea" itself actually derives from the transliteration of the Teochew dialect words "cha" used in Shantou and Xiamen. Yet despite this rich linguistic connection, detailed historical accounts of Gongfu tea remain scarce—so much so that even the *Chaozhou Prefecture Gazetteer* fails to mention it. This absence is indeed a regrettable omission.

　　As far as we can currently verify, although the Chaozhou region was already known for "double rice harvests and five silkworm yields" before the Yuan dynasty, it doesn’t seem tea cultivation had yet taken root there. The *Yongle Dadian*, specifically volume 5,343, is now the earliest extant edition of the *Chaozhou Gazetteer*. Within its section on "taxation," it actually quotes from the *Sanyang Zhi*—the "Three Yangs" referring to Haiyang (modern-day Chao'an, Chaoyang, and Jieyang). Unfortunately, neither the original *Sanyang Zhi* nor its illustrated counterpart, the *Sanyang Tuzhi*, survive today. Yet, miraculously, after countless disasters, just a single copy of the *Chaozhou Gazetteer* remains intact within the vast *Yongle Dadian*. Notably, this version frequently cites passages directly from the lost *Sanyang Zhi* and other early texts, making it an exceptionally valuable resource. Judging from the surviving text, the *Sanyang Zhi* appears to have been a local chronicle dedicated to these three counties during the Yuan dynasty.

　　"Tea taxation originated from the time of Yu the Great, who distinguished the products of the nine provinces for tribute, but there is no record of tea being offered as tribute. This continued through the Han, Wei, Jin, and Liang dynasties without reaching this level. It was not until the Tang dynasty, with figures such as Zhao Zanpang, Wang Lou, and Wang Ya, that tea production systems were first established. During the Song dynasty, the 'quewu' system was introduced along with the method of 'three shares and three taxes,' which led to a significant increase in tea taxation. Naturally, tea-producing regions were expected to pay taxes. But how could regions without tea cultivation pay taxes? For example, Chaozhou, as a prefecture, had no tea-picking households or tea merchants, so its tea tax was imposed on the salt merchants, who paid on behalf of others. If officials were aware of this, wouldn't they consider reforming this unfair practice?" This proves that during the Yuan dynasty, tea was not yet cultivated in the Chaozhou area. The lack of tea cultivation itself is not a problem, since the tea leaves used in Chaozhou's "Gongfu Tea" do not come from Chaozhou. However, the absence of tea merchants is problematic. If the record in the *Sanyang Zhi* is accurate, it is likely that Chaozhou did not yet have the enjoyment of "Gongfu Tea" during the Yuan dynasty.

　　This certainly qualifies as a remarkable phenomenon: by the Qing Dynasty, it had become widely known that Chaozhou residents were passionate about tea, that Chaozhou’s "Gongfu Tea" was renowned throughout the region, and that many Chaozhou people were deeply involved in the tea trade. As noted in the Qing-era *Chaojia Fengyue Ji*:

　　"Kung Fu tea, with its meticulous preparation method rooted in Lu Yu’s *The Classic of Tea*, is served using even more refined utensils—just one small stove and one porcelain tray. The number of teacups, however, depends on the size of the gathering. First, spring water is stored in a jar and gently boiled over fine charcoal until it reaches the initial bubble stage. Then, Fujian-style tea leaves are added to the pot and quickly steeped. After covering the pot, hot water is carefully poured over the lid before finally pouring the tea into cups for a slow, deliberate sip. The resulting aroma is rich and fragrant—so much so that it surpasses even the delicate taste of savoring plum blossoms."

　　“Pour the Min tea directly into the teapot and brew,” and that’s still how it’s done today. Gongfu tea traditionally uses Tieguanyin, a renowned tea found exclusively in Fujian province nationwide. Of course, these days the Chaozhou region is also a major tea-producing area. Among them, the “Dancong Qizhong” variety from Phoenix Mountain in Chao’an (formerly part of Raoping)—commonly known simply as “Phoenix Tea”—has earned fame both at home and abroad. Today, it ranks first among China’s top-grade teas, yet unfortunately, its production remains limited. Perhaps this scarcity only adds to its value, making it the most expensive domestically produced tea available.