Fuding White Tea: The Timeless Elegance of Mount Taishan’s Finest Leaves
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2014-05-07
Tea is the earliest type of tea to be processed among the six major categories. As early as the Zhou Dynasty, ancient people already employed a simple method—drying tea leaves either in the sun or in the shade—that closely resembles the modern technique used for making white tea. This practice allowed them to preserve tea leaves for various purposes, such as ritual offerings, medicinal treatments, spiritual retreats, and everyday enjoyment. We refer to this ancient form of tea as "ancient white tea." According to legend, Lady Lan even "sun-dried the tender buds of tea to treat measles," marking what could be considered the very first prototype of white tea.
More than a thousand years ago, Lu Yu’s *The Classic of Tea*, citing the *Yongjia Tujing*, recorded: “Three hundred li east of Yongjia County lies Mount Baicha.” Professor Chen Chuan, in his *A Comprehensive History of the Tea Industry*, noted: “The ‘300 li east of Yongjia’ actually refers to the sea—this is likely a misinterpretation of ‘300 li south.’ In fact, ‘300 li south’ points to Fuding in Fujian, the very region where white tea originated.” Thus, the “Mount Baicha” mentioned here clearly refers to the numerous mountain ranges within Fuding, most notably represented by Mount Taihu.
Since ancient times, famous mountains have been renowned for producing exceptional teas. These premium teas owe their quality first and foremost to the superior genetics of the tea varieties themselves—genetics that are deeply tied to the region's unique geography and climate. In Fuding, the landscape features a distinctive topography: higher elevations in the northwest and gradually lower terrain toward the southeast, with vast mountainous areas exceeding 500 meters above sea level. This ideal setting provides the perfect natural habitat for cultivating some of China’s finest tea cultivars. Nature has further blessed Fuding with two nationally recognized, high-quality tea varieties: Fuding Da Bai Cha and Fuding Da Hao Cha. Moreover, the harmonious interplay among Fuding’s distinct cultural, geographical, ecological, and phenological conditions, combined with the region’s time-honored, masterful tea-making techniques, seamlessly comes together to create the exquisite Fuding White Tea.
In Fuding, nestled in the Taimu Mountains, Fuding white tea has been intimately intertwined with people's lives since ancient times. A quick glance through poems and writings about Mount Taimu reveals a rich tapestry of references. In Chen Zhongzhen’s "Record of a Journey to Mount Taimu" from the Ming Dynasty, we read: "Among the bamboo groves, one spots towering peaks resting beneath the sky—these are known as Stone Dragons, also called Die Shi An. Though the monastic community here is sizable, most monks make their living by raising bees and selling tea. Though this practice may not strictly adhere to Buddhist precepts, it helps sustain the impoverished monks and even fosters a sense of unity within the community." Even the monks themselves relied on "raising bees and selling tea" as a vital source of income, highlighting how, by at least the Ming Dynasty, tea had already become an indispensable part of the economic and daily lives of the mountain villagers. Further exploring the poetry of the same era—such as Xie Zhaozhe’s lines "The tea pickers have gone; the monkeys descend for the first time," found in "Reflections at Yu Lake Hermitage"; or "I wonder where the monk has gone—still no sign of him returning from tea-picking," from "At Tianyuan Hermitage"; and "Wild monkeys scramble for early spring fruits, while young children gather unripe tea leaves," from "Composing on Mount Taimu"—we glimpse how, deep within the passage of time, tea had seamlessly woven itself into the everyday routines of people—from commoners to monks, men and women, young and old.
Minglin Zushu’s "Record of a Journey to Mount Taibao" notes: "I sat cross-legged by the stream, fetched water with a bamboo kettle, and brewed Taibao tea to savor its delicate flavor." Similarly, Qing scholar Xie Jinluan, in his "Record of Shuyu Cave," writes: "Returning once more, I drew fresh water from the channel, rinsed the kettle, heated the spring water over stones, and settled down on a rock to listen quietly. Soon after, as the sun passed noon, the tea had steeped a second time. Even the young attendant continued boiling leaves to brew another batch." In addition, Qing scholar Wang Sugong, in his "Record of a Visit to Mount Taibao," describes entering the Seven-Star Cave, where the legendary Dan Well resides. "Springwater trickles steadily into the well from cracks in the rocks—so clear and abundant that visitors often cup it in their hands, using it to prepare the famed ‘Green Snow Sprouts’ tea." Finally, Ming poet Lin Aimin, in his poem "Dream Journey to Mount Taibao," captures the serene scene with the lines: "A monk can fast for days without food, yet he brews tea effortlessly right atop the stone." Meanwhile, Lin Zushu, in his "Poem Visiting the Hermit at Tianyuan Monastery on Bi Mountain," paints an evocative image: "Beneath the bamboo grove, mountain breezes carry the fragrant aroma of brewing tea; just outside, citrus fruits glow alongside fiery maples and red oaks." "Boiling" and "brewing"—these were the traditional methods ancient tea connoisseurs favored. As we read these poetic passages, we can easily picture the breathtaking landscape: towering peaks resembling masterpieces, verdant bamboo and trees casting dappled shade, murmuring streams weaving through the scenery, and gentle mountain winds brushing softly against our skin. To sit together, quietly preparing tea amidst such tranquility—it truly feels like stepping into a realm of Taibao’s own divine serenity!
According to research documented in the "Chinese Famous Tea Records," Tai Mu Lüxueya was already regarded as a prized tea during the Ming Dynasty. In his "Min Chan Lu Yi," Guo Baicang of the Qing Dynasty noted: "In the tea regions of Funning Prefecture, there is Tai Mu Lüxueya." Similarly, Wu Zhenchen, also writing during the Qing, remarked in "Min You Ou Ji": "Tai Mu Mountain also produces it, and among all varieties, Lüxueya is considered the finest." Meanwhile, Zhou Lianggong, in his "Min Xiao Ji," stated: "Tai Mu Mountain is home to Lüxueya tea." Later, during the Republic of China era, Mr. Zhuo Jianzhou, referencing Zhou Lianggong’s quote in "Tai Mu Shan Quan Zhi · Fang Wu," elaborated further: "Lüxueya, now commonly known as Bai Hao, boasts an extraordinary aroma and color—and those harvested from Hongxue Cave are especially revered. It has cooling properties, comparable in efficacy to rhinoceros horn, making it a celebrated remedy for measles. This tea is even exported overseas, fetching prices rivaling gold."
Notably, the poetic name "Lü Xueya" was coined by Xiong Mingyu, a distinguished minister of the Ministry of War during the Ming Dynasty. Professor Xu Guangtai from the Institute of History at National Tsing Hua University in Taiwan recently visited Mount Taimu for the third time and confirmed that the two cliffside inscriptions—“Hongxue Cave” and “Yunbiao”—were indeed penned by Xiong Mingyu himself. In a special article, Professor Xu highlighted that during the Wanli era, Xiong Mingyu, who was labeled an adherent of the Donglin faction, was reassigned to Fujian as a military inspector overseeing defense preparations along the Funning Road. He climbed Mount Taimu twice—in March and May of 1620—to inscribe the iconic "Hongxue Cave" and "Yunbiao" carvings on the cliffs. Given Xiong Mingyu’s lifelong passion for tea, it’s worth noting that he previously spearheaded the development of Luojiao Rock Tea in Changxing County, even naming it "Luojiao Tea." This pioneering effort is documented in his original work, the *Luojiao Cha Shu*, which was later included in his collection *Lü Xue Lou Ji* published during his tenure in Funning. Based on these findings, Professor Xu Guangtai firmly concludes that the origin of the renowned "Lü Xueya" tea name associated with Mount Taimu is directly linked to Xiong Mingyu.
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