The Glorious White Lin Gongfu of History

　　The Glorious White Lin Gongfu of History

　　"Bailin Gongfu" is a Fuding-style black tea, named after its primary production area—Bailin in Fuding. Renowned both domestically and internationally for its exquisite, entirely handcrafted techniques and its uniquely superior quality, it was once celebrated alongside Fujian’s "Tanyang Gongfu" from Fu'an County and "Zhenghe Gongfu" from Zhenghe County as one of the "Three Great Gongfu Teas of Min." The craftsmanship behind Bailin Gongfu tea is not only the central process in creating Gongfu-style black tea but also the critical step that transforms raw tea buds into a finished product. With a long-standing tradition and an unparalleled artisanal appeal, this technique represents an invaluable intangible cultural heritage deeply rooted in Fuding’s rich history.

　　I. The Time-Tested Historical Roots of Bailin Gongfu. Gongfu black tea originated in Bailin, Fuding, and its production techniques have been passed down for over 250 years. According to the "Funing Fu Zhi," compiled in 1759 (the year Ji Mao during the Qing Dynasty's Qianlong reign) by Li Ba, then Prefect of Funing: "Tea is grown throughout the prefecture and its administrative seat; among them, the finest comes from Bailin in Fuding." This clearly indicates that by at least the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, Bailin was already renowned as a prominent tea-producing region—and even garnered attention from local officials, earning its place in historical records. Fuding’s history of tea cultivation dates back to the Tang Dynasty, as evidenced by historical references. In his seminal work, "The Classic of Tea," written during the Tang Dynasty, Lu Yu noted: "Three hundred li east of Yongjia lies Mount Bai Cha." Research suggests that this "Mount Bai Cha" refers specifically to Fuding as a key region for white tea production, with major tea-growing areas concentrated in Bailin, Diantou, Panxi, Xuncheng, Dianxia, and Tongshan. Among these, Bailin, Panxi, and Diantou stand out as Fuding’s three primary tea-producing regions. Since the Qing Dynasty, these areas have used varieties like Fuding Dabai and Fuding Dahao teas as raw materials to craft exquisite black tea, elegantly named "Bailin Gongfu." This tea quickly gained fame, becoming highly sought after and exported far beyond Southeast Asia, reaching countries in Western Europe as well.

　　II. The Unique Regional Environment of Bailin Gongfu Bailin Town, the primary production area for Bailin Gongfu tea, is located in the central part of Fuding City. It shares land borders with townships such as Diandou, Panxi, Dianxia, Qinyu, and Zhayang in Zherong County, while its waterways connect mainly to the Bashi Gate Inland Sea. Bailin’s distinctive geographical features and rich cultural context provide valuable insights into the historical origins of Gongfu black tea. The thriving scene of Bailin-produced Gongfu black tea was vividly described by Mr. Zhu Tingguang (1917–2004) in his article titled "The Bright Prospects Ahead for Bailin Houqi Commercial Port." Tea has long been a signature product of Bailin, and every spring, merchants from Quanzhou and Xiamen—known as the "South Gang"—as well as those from Guangzhou and Hong Kong—the "Guang Gang"—would flock to Bailin. Together with local tea traders, these merchants set up specialized tea-processing workshops across the region. At the time, there were officially up to 24 such tea establishments run by both visiting and local traders. Among the most renowned local tea businesses were "Shuangchunlong," "Henghechun," and "Heyili," which enjoyed widespread acclaim both domestically and internationally.

　　III. The Rise and Fall of Bailin Gongfu: A Cycle of Transformation Bailin Gongfu has gone through four distinct phases: its initial rise to prominence, a subsequent decline from prosperity, a revival from adversity, and finally, a gradual waning of its former glory. From the Qing Dynasty through the early years of the Republic of China, Bailin Gongfu experienced its period of rapid growth and dominance. Historical records indicate that during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty, Fuding exported 20,000 boxes of black tea—each weighing 50 *jin*—to markets as far-flung as Shanghai and beyond. However, by the early Republican era, the tea industry began to decline sharply, with annual output plummeting to less than one million yuan. Yet, from the mid-Republic period until just before liberation, Bailin Gongfu underwent a remarkable turnaround. Tea-producing areas like Bailin and Diandou in Fuding flourished once again, witnessing a booming trade as local tea merchants thrived. Tea warehouses and teahouses sprang up across the region, bustling with activity. Tea merchants often contracted with foreign trading firms or major tea distributors to deliver premium Gongfu teas at designated ports and docks, where these teas were then exported to Hong Kong, Macau, and countries in Europe and North America. In Bailin itself, several well-capitalized teahouses emerged, breaking free from the control of external tea firms and foreign trading companies. These local enterprises even organized shipments of Gongfu tea via waterways to Yingkou, from where the tea was transported overland to Manzhouli for export to the Soviet Union. After liberation, however, the Gongfu tea industry entered a new phase of decline, marked by reduced demand and shifting global market dynamics. By the late 1950s, international trends began to favor other types of tea, leading to a sharp drop in overseas demand for black tea. By the early 1970s, the traditional production model for Gongfu tea had largely given way to alternative methods better suited to evolving consumer preferences.

　　IV. The Sophisticated Production Process of Bailin Gongfu Tea Since its creation during the Qing Dynasty until before Liberation, Bailin Gongfu black tea was exclusively processed by hand, produced in small-scale, home-based tea workshops set up by local farmers and tea traders. These teas were then purchased by tea merchants and teahouses, which further refined the raw tea leaves or fresh tea buds into the final, high-quality finished product. As a fermented tea, Bailin Gongfu’s distinctive aroma, rich liquor color, and vibrant leaf appearance are primarily developed during the fermentation stage. The production process of Bailin Gongfu tea is intricately linked, with each step complementing the others: 1. Picking 2. Withering 3. Rolling 4. Breaking Up Clumps 5. Fermentation 6. Drying

　　V. A Distinguished Tea Master Carrying Forward the Legacy of Bailin Gongfu. During the Qing Dynasty, tea master Shao Weixian (1855–1931), courtesy name Xinli and sobriquet Qiuxi, was honored as a "Guoxuesheng" by the imperial court. Born in XinYang Village, Bailin Tangyuan, he was the third son of the prosperous Dalì branch of the BoLing Shao family. Shao Weixian built his fortune by skillfully crafting and managing tea businesses, eventually becoming a wealthy landowner with substantial assets. Today, the historic quadrangle courtyard residence he constructed after achieving success—now preserved at the old Ping Store in XinYang Village—covers an impressive area of 350 square meters. At the height of his success, Shao Weixian controlled over 1,200 dan of leased farmland and expanded his tea business to major markets such as Fuzhou. The ancient residence features an ornate gatehouse adorned with the inscription "Yang Shao Dongling," paying homage to the Eastern Mausoleum. In the spring of 1914, marking Shao Weixian’s 60th birthday, Fujian’s Civil Affairs Commissioner Wang Shengling presented him with a plaque reading "Mingjing Qisù," celebrating his distinguished scholarly achievements. Seven years later, in 1924, on the occasion of his 70th birthday, his son-in-law Ding Wenshi and grandson-in-law Yuan Zongsong jointly gifted him another plaque titled "Pei Huan Chun Mian," symbolizing enduring prosperity and longevity. Both plaques are still proudly displayed today. Around 1907, Shao Weixian established a tea shop in Bailin. In Me Bozhen’s essay titled "Xiao Xi Chenqing Shu," published in the village of Toutou Bai Liu, we read: "Just as Mr. Shao Weixian opened his tea estate and began harvesting tea, he found himself short-handed. Graciously, he invited me to join forces as a partner. Fortunately, our collaboration has flourished over the past five or six years, enabling our business to thrive steadily. Each year, I travel to the provincial capital to settle accounts for the tea sales, a responsibility I’ve consistently managed." Yuan Ziqing, the owner of the renowned Hemao Zhi Tea House, was another prominent tea figure spanning the Qing and Republican eras. He is credited with pioneering Bailin Gongfu’s celebrated "Ju Hong"—a premium grade of black tea. Due to limited historical records, further research is needed to uncover more details about Yuan Ziqing’s remarkable contributions to the tea industry.

　　6. The remnants of the once-famous Bailin Gongfu tea factory. Today, the site of the original Bailin Primary Processing Factory stands in Kangshan Village, Bailin, nestled against the scenic backdrop of Mount Kangshan. Established by the Fujian Branch of China National Tea Corporation, this facility produced the renowned "Bailin Gongfu" black tea, which gained international acclaim. Originally, the primary processing plant featured a distinctive brick-and-wood structure with a unique four-sided courtyard layout and an elegant pavilion-style gatehouse adorned with gray plasterwork, complete with gracefully curved eaves. At the center of the gatehouse’s decorative archway loomed a prominent five-pointed star, proudly bearing the inscription "China National Tea Corporation Fujian Branch Bailin Primary Processing Factory." Tragically, the gatehouse was severely damaged during Typhoon Saomai in 2006, wiping away both its time-honored architectural charm and the historic lettering. Today, local villagers have restored the gatehouse using cement repairs, even painting over the original brick wall on the right side, effectively erasing the building’s original, evocative character.