Fuding White Tea: Timeless Elegance, A Lasting Fragrance from Mount Taishan
Author:
Bai Rongmin
Release date:
2012-08-06
The author agrees with this view: white tea is the earliest among the six major categories of tea to have been crafted. As early as the Zhou Dynasty, ancient people already employed a simple processing method—drying tea leaves either in the sun or in the shade—that closely resembles the technique used today to produce modern white tea. This practice allowed them to preserve tea leaves for various purposes, such as ritual offerings, medicinal treatments, spiritual retreats, and even everyday enjoyment. We refer to these ancient teas as "ancient white tea." Legend has it that Lady Lan "dried the tender buds of tea under the sun to treat measles," and this tea can be seen as the very first prototype of white tea.
More than a thousand years ago, Lu Yu’s *The Classic of Tea*, citing the *Yongjia Tu Jing*, recorded: “Three hundred li east of Yongjia County lies Mount Baicha.” Professor Chen Chuan, in his *A Comprehensive History of the Tea Industry*, noted: “The ‘300 li east of Yongjia’ actually refers to the sea—this is likely a misinterpretation of ‘300 li south.’ In fact, ‘300 li south’ points to Fuding in Fujian, the very region where white tea originated.” Clearly, the “Mount Baicha” mentioned here corresponds to the many mountainous areas within Fuding, most notably represented by Mount Tai’ao.
Since ancient times, famous mountains have been renowned for producing exceptional teas. These premium teas owe their quality first and foremost to the superior genetics of the tea varieties themselves—genetics that are deeply tied to the region's unique geography and climate. Fuding boasts vast mountainous areas in its northwest, which rise sharply above 500 meters in elevation, while the southeastern slopes gently descend toward lower altitudes. This distinctive topography creates an ideal natural habitat for cultivating high-quality tea plants. Moreover, nature has generously endowed Fuding with two nationally recognized, elite tea cultivars: Fuding Da Bai Cha and Fuding Da Hao Cha. The harmonious interplay among Fuding’s unique cultural, geographical, ecological, and phenological conditions, combined seamlessly with the region’s time-honored, masterful tea-making techniques, has given birth to the exquisite Fuding White Tea.
In Fuding, nestled in the Taibao Mountain region, Fuding white tea has been closely intertwined with people's lives since ancient times. A quick browse through poems and writings about Mount Taibao reveals a long list of references—
In Ming Dynasty Chen Zhongzhen’s "Record of a Journey to Mount Taibao," it is noted: "Among the bamboo groves, one can spot towering peaks resting beneath the sky—these are known as Stone Dragons, also called Die Shi An. Though the monastery is home to a sizable community of monks, they primarily earn their living by raising bees and selling tea. While this practice may not strictly adhere to monastic discipline, it has become an essential means for these impoverished monks to sustain themselves and even accumulate modest wealth." Even the monks themselves rely on "raising bees and selling tea" as a way to "gather sustenance"—a testament to how, by at least the Ming era, tea had already become an indispensable part of the economic and daily lives of the people living in the Taibao Mountain region. Further exploring the poetry of the same period, such as Xie Zhaozhe’s lines—"The tea pickers depart, and the monkeys descend for the first time; the begging monk returns, yet the crane remains asleep"—or "I ask the monk, where has he gone? Still out gathering tea leaves," and "Wild monkeys scramble for early spring fruits, while young children gather dew-kissed tea leaves"—as well as Zhou Qianqiu’s verse—"Several tea gardens dot the countryside villas, while a few thatched huts quietly announce the arrival of spring"—we glimpse how, deep within the passage of time, tea had seamlessly woven itself into the fabric of everyday life, touching both the secular world and the spiritual realm, affecting people of all ages, genders, and walks of life.
Minglin Zushu’s "Record of a Journey to Mount Taomu" notes: "I sat cross-legged by the stream, fetched water using a bamboo kettle, and brewed Taomu tea, sipping it slowly." Similarly, Qing scholar Xie Jinluan, in his "Record of Shuyu Cave," writes: "Returning once more, I drew water directly from the stream, washed the teapot, heated the spring water, and settled down on a rock to quietly enjoy the moment. Soon after, as the sun passed noon, the tea had steeped a second time. … Meanwhile, the servant boy continued boiling leaves to brew fresh tea." In addition, Wang Sugong, also from the Qing dynasty, describes in his "Record of a Journey to Mount Taomu": "Entering the Seven-Star Cave, one finds Rongcheng Dan Well nestled within. Springwater trickles steadily into the well from cracks in the rock—so clear that visitors often cup their hands to collect it, using it to prepare ‘Green Snow Sprouts’ tea." Finally, Ming poet Lin Aimin, in his poem "Dream Journey to Mount Taomu," captures the serene scene with the lines: "A monk can fast for days without food, brewing tea only from beneath the stone." And in Lin Zushu’s "Poem Visiting the Monk at Tianyuan Hermitage on Bi Mountain," we read: "Amidst the bamboo groves, mountain breezes carry the fragrant aroma of brewing tea; outside, citrus fruits glow alongside fiery maples and red oaks." “Peng” and “zhu” were ancient methods of preparing tea. As we reflect upon these poetic passages, we can vividly picture the breathtaking scenery: towering peaks resembling masterpieces, lush bamboo and trees casting soothing shade, murmuring streams weaving through the landscape, and gentle mountain winds caressing the air. To sit together, quietly steeping tea under such tranquil surroundings—it truly feels like stepping into a realm of Taomu’s divine tranquility!
According to research documented in the "Chinese Famous Tea Records," Tai Mu Lüxueya was already regarded as a prized tea during the Ming Dynasty. In Guo Baicang's "Records of Fujian Products," written during the Qing Dynasty, it is noted: "In the tea-growing regions of Funing Prefecture, there is Tai Mu Lüxueya." Similarly, Wu Zhenchen’s "Occasional Notes on a Journey Through Fujian" remarks: "Tai Mu Mountain also produces it, and among all varieties, Lüxueya is considered the finest." Meanwhile, Zhou Lianggong, in his "Brief Records of Fujian," states: "Tai Mu Mountain is home to Lüxueya tea." Later, during the Republic of China era, Mr. Zhuo Jianzhou, referencing Zhou Lianggong’s statement in "Complete Records of Tai Mu Mountain: Local Products," elaborated further: "Lüxueya, now commonly known as Baihao, boasts an extraordinary aroma and color—and those harvested from Hongxue Cave are especially celebrated. It has cooling properties, comparable in efficacy to rhinoceros horn, making it a renowned remedy for measles. This tea is even exported overseas, fetching prices rivaling gold."
Notably, the poetic name "Lü Xue Ya" was coined by Xiong Mingyu, a distinguished minister of the Ministry of War during the Ming Dynasty. On May 12, 2012, Professor Xu Guangtai from the Institute of History at Taiwan’s Tsinghua University made his third visit to Mount Taimu and confirmed that the two cliffside inscriptions—“Hongxue Cave” and “Yunbiao”—were indeed penned by Xiong Mingyu himself. In a special article he published (featured on page 6 of the Fuding Weekly on May 16, 2012), Professor Xu highlighted how, during the Wanli era, Xiong Mingyu, who was labeled a member of the Donglin faction, was reassigned as the Inspector-General of Military Affairs in Fujian and later served as the military governor of Funing Road. It was during this period that he twice ascended Mount Taimu—in March and May of the 48th year of the Wanli reign (1620)—leaving behind the iconic inscriptions "Hongxue Cave" and "Yunbiao." Given Xiong Mingyu’s lifelong passion for tea, it is worth noting that he previously spearheaded the development of Luojieyan tea in Changxing, even naming it "Luojie Tea" and leaving behind the original text *Luojie Cha Shu*. This document was later included in his collection *Lü Xue Lou Ji*, published during his tenure in Funing. Based on these historical connections, Professor Xu Guangtai firmly concludes that the origin of the renowned "Lü Xue Ya" tea name from Mount Taimu is directly tied to Xiong Mingyu.
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