How a national-level senior tea evaluator interprets white tea and green tea

　　Fujian is a major tea-producing province, accounting for four out of the six major tea categories. Among them, oolong tea—also known as green-black tea—is the most renowned variety, while the relatively understated white and green teas have long attracted a dedicated following thanks to their crisp, refreshing, and subtly sweet flavors.

　　"Did you know the difference between Bai Hao Yin Zhen and Bai Mu Dan, even though they're both white teas? Can you tell the difference among stir-fried green tea, oven-dried green tea, sun-dried green tea, and steamed green tea? Chen Yurong, a member of the National Tea Standards Technical Committee, a senior quality engineer, and a nationally certified Grade-1 Senior Tea Taster, is here to explain white tea and green tea for us."

　　What is white tea?

　　White tea is primarily produced in places like Fuding and Zhenghe in Fujian Province. It is one of China's special tea varieties, processed without pan-firing or rolling—instead, it undergoes withering (or drying) directly—and belongs to the category of lightly fermented teas.

　　Depending on the tea tree variety of the fresh leaf material, raw tea is classified into "Da Bai" (or Shuixian Bai) and "Xiao Bai." After refined processing, four distinct varieties emerge: Bai Hao Yin Zhen, Bai Mu Dan, Gong Mei, and Shou Mei.

　　The asexual variety, Da Bai Cha, features plump, robust buds with pristine white down. The tender buds and leaves harvested from this tea plant are prized for crafting two exquisite specialties: first, Bai Hao Yin Zhen—a delicate white tea made exclusively from the full, single bud of the Da Bai Cha; and second, Bai Mu Dan—a tea composed of one bud and two leaves, with the bud and leaves still connected by their stems, showcasing abundant white tips in a naturally elegant, flower-like shape.

　　The variety of tea known as "Xiaobai," prized for its tender buds and leaves, features delicate, finely crafted strands with a grayish-green hue. Its leaf edges curl downward slightly, giving it a subtly curved, eyebrow-like appearance. When refined, this high-quality tea is classified as "Gongmei." Meanwhile, the by-products remaining after processing "Dabai" and "Xiaobai" are collectively referred to as "Shoumei."

　　Varieties of White Tea

　　White Hair Silver Needle: Also known as Silver Needle or White Down, this tea is crafted from the plump, tender bud tips of either Zhenghe Da Bai Cha or Fuding Da Bai Cha. It features a needle-like shape, a silvery-white hue, and an elegantly graceful appearance with a radiant sheen. When brewed, the tea liquor reveals a delicate apricot-yellow color, while its aroma boasts a fresh, crisp fragrance with a distinctively silky "hao" (downy) note. The taste is clean, smooth, and leaves a lingering sweetness on the palate.

　　White Peony: The buds and leaves are gracefully attached to the stem, resembling naturally withered petals in shape, with a gray-green hue and delicate white down covering the undersides of the leaves. The tea liquor is an invitingly bright, clear orange-yellow, boasting a fresh, crisp aroma and a subtly sweet, harmonious flavor. The leaf base reveals a pale gray-green color, with faintly reddish veins.

　　Gongmei: High-quality Gongmei features prominent silver tips, a rich dark-green color, a fresh and pure aroma, a subtly sweet taste, a bright yellow liquor, and leaves that are gray-green with occasional reddish hues.

　　What is green tea?

　　Green tea is an unfermented tea, characterized by its green liquor and green leaves. It is divided into two main categories: bulk green tea and premium green tea. Bulk green tea refers to common varieties such as pan-fired, oven-dried, sun-dried, and steamed green teas, most of which are produced using mechanical methods in large quantities, with predominantly mid- to low-grade quality. Depending on the tenderness of the fresh leaf material, bulk green tea is graded from tenderest to oldest, typically ranging from Grade 1 to Grade 6—six levels in total—with quality decreasing progressively from high to low.

　　Varieties of green tea

　　Stir-fried green tea. Depending on the shape of the dried tea leaves, it is further categorized into long-stir-fried green tea, round-stir-fried green tea, and flat-stir-fried green tea. Among these, long-stir-fried green tea is the most widely produced and accounts for the largest share of output, primarily cultivated in the three provinces of Zhejiang, Anhui, and Jiangxi.

　　The quality characteristics of Long Stir-Fried Green Tea are: medium- to high-grade tea leaves with tight, straight, uniform, and well-defined shapes, featuring sharp tips and a vibrant green luster. It boasts a rich, intense aroma, a full-bodied and mellow taste, a clear yellow-green liquor color, and tender, bright-yellow-green infused leaves. After refined processing, Long Stir-Fried Green Tea is transformed into Meicha, primarily intended for export sales. In recent years, some major tea-producing provinces have also begun using this refined Long Stir-Fried Green Tea as a key ingredient in the production of scented floral teas.

　　Round pan-fried green tea is also one of China’s major green tea varieties. Historically, its primary trading hub was in Pingshui Town, Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province, which is why it’s known as “Pingshui Pearl Tea.” The raw tea leaves are often referred to as “Pingcha Qing.” The tea features a distinctive round, pearl-like shape; premium-grade teas are finely crafted into tight, dense, and lustrous dark-green pellets. When brewed, the tea boasts a rich, pure aroma and a full-bodied, mellow flavor, resulting in a bright yellow-green liquor. The tea leaves themselves remain soft, intact, and exhibit a vibrant yellow-green hue upon steeping. After further refining, this round pan-fried green tea is transformed into “Pearl Tea,” which is primarily exported to African countries.

　　Flat pan-fried green tea has a distinctive flattened shape and includes varieties such as Longjing, Dafang, and Qigang teas. Among these, Longjing tea is renowned as a premium green tea and is now officially recognized under the protected geographical indication system. Originally cultivated in the suburban areas of Hangzhou City in Zhejiang Province, as well as in regions like Fuyang, Yuhang, and Xiaoshan, Qigang tea later saw its cultivation techniques, harvesting standards, and processing methods continuously refined over time. As a result, it gradually became integrated into the broader category of Zhejiang Longjing tea. Dafang tea, on the other hand, is primarily produced in She County, Anhui Province, though it’s also grown in Chun’an and Lin’an counties in Zhejiang. This tea is widely used as a base ingredient for jasmine-flavored scented teas. Its defining quality characteristics include a flat, uniform, and evenly shaped appearance; straight, plump leaves with a rich yellow-green hue tinged with light brown undertones, all glistening with natural oils. When brewed, it releases a robust aroma reminiscent of ripe chestnuts, accompanied by a full-bodied, refreshing taste. The resulting tea liquor is a clear, pale yellow color, while the infused leaves remain tender, soft, and beautifully bright—displaying a vibrant yellow-green hue.

　　Huangqing tea is produced across a wide range of regions, with major tea-producing provinces all contributing to its output—particularly Fujian, Zhejiang, Anhui, and Yunnan, where yields are especially high. Huangqing tea features a strip-like shape, slightly looser than the longer-strip Changchao variety. Its key quality characteristics include: medium-to-high-grade teas boasting tightly straight strips with visible tips and delicate white hairs, displaying a deep green, glossy appearance; internally, the tea offers a pure, fresh aroma and a rich, smooth flavor, resulting in a bright yellow-green, crystal-clear liquor. The leaves themselves remain tender, evenly shaped, soft, and fully intact, with a vibrant yellow-green hue. After careful refinement, this tea is primarily used for blending into scented floral teas.

　　Sun-dried green tea is produced in provinces and regions across central-south and southwest China, as well as in Shanxi province, with Yunnan's sun-dried green tea widely regarded as the highest quality. After partial refinement, some of the raw sun-dried green tea is sold on the market as loose-leaf tea, while others are used as raw material for compressed teas. Its key quality characteristics include tightly curled, well-formed tea strips with a dark-green color that lacks luster; a subdued, earthy aroma often accompanied by a distinct "sun-exposure" scent; a yellowish, somewhat dull liquor; a robust, full-bodied flavor; and a leaf base that’s yellowish with a slightly darkened tone—often featuring reddish stems and leaves.

　　Steamed green tea is a type of green tea made using steam to fix the green color, primarily intended for export to Japan. Premium-grade teas exhibit the "three greens" quality characteristics: the dry leaves boast a vibrant emerald-green hue, the brewed tea has a clear, verdant liquor, and the infused leaves retain a fresh, lively green tone. Visually, the tea leaves are slender, tightly rolled, and straight; delicate buds stand out prominently, while the aroma evokes the earthy fragrance of mossy vegetables. The taste is smooth, with a lingering sweetness that lingers on the palate. Meanwhile, lower-to-mid-range teas still feature tightly rolled, slightly flattened leaves that are long and straight, with a deeper green color. Their aroma remains pleasantly fresh, though the flavor may carry a mild astringency, and the infused leaves display a soft, tender texture with a lingering greenish hue.