Savoring aged Tieguanyin roasted over charcoal

　　Recently, I received a box of aged charcoal-roasted Tieguanyin tea. As my family gathered around, wisps of tea smoke gently rose—truly capturing the essence of an ancient saying: "Before tasting the sweet nectar, one first inhales the divine, exquisite fragrance." Sipping slowly and deliberately, letting the tea lightly roll across the base of the tongue, you can savor its rich, mellow, and delightfully fresh flavor. Each sip glides smoothly down the throat, leaving behind a lingering sweetness that hints of honey—a taste experience that’s endlessly captivating and deeply satisfying.

　　In China, teas are conventionally categorized into six main types based on their degree of fermentation: green tea, black tea, oolong tea (also known as blue-green tea), yellow tea, white tea, and dark tea. The Tieguanyin tea we commonly enjoy belongs to the oolong tea category, often referred to as "blue-green tea." Tieguanyin can be further divided into three subtypes based on aroma: light fragrance, rich fragrance, and charcoal-roasted—also known as aged Tieguanyin. Light-fragrance Tieguanyin undergoes relatively mild fermentation, resulting in vibrant green leaves and a rich, aromatic profile. When sipped, it offers a delightful balance of subtle acidity and floral notes. On the other hand, rich-fragrance Tieguanyin is fermented for a longer, more intense period, giving it a fuller, earthier character. Its liquor boasts a golden hue with a bright, lustrous appearance and a deeper color intensity. While aromatic, its flavor unfolds gently and gracefully, without overwhelming the palate. Lastly, charcoal-roasted aged Tieguanyin takes the traditional rich-fragrance version and refines it further by subjecting the tea leaves to a second round of charcoal roasting, followed by natural aging to enhance its complexity. Personally, I particularly enjoy the charcoal-roasted aged variety because of its exceptionally sweet aftertaste and uniquely satisfying mouthfeel. After savoring it, you’ll notice an incredibly soothing sensation in your throat, accompanied by a bold, smoky aroma—what we call the "charcoal roast" or "toasty" flavor. And when brewed, the tea liquor transforms into a striking yellow-red hue, quite distinct from the pale, clear-green infusion typical of the lighter-fragrance style.

　　There are two popular stories about the origin of Tieguanyin tea. One tale dates back to the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty, when a tea farmer named Wei Yin from Anxi County in Fujian Province was an ardent devotee of Guanyin Bodhisattva. Every day, he would first offer tea to Guanyin before heading off to work in his tea garden. One day, he noticed a tea plant growing miraculously from a crack in the stone beside the temple gate. Moved by this divine sign, Wei Yin carefully transplanted the plant into his own garden, nurturing it with great care—watering and fertilizing it diligently. As the tree flourished, Wei Yin harvested its tender buds, crafted them into exquisite tea leaves, and prepared a cup to present to Guanyin once again. To his astonishment, the tea emitted an unusually rich aroma that filled the room with a delightful fragrance. When he examined the golden-yellow, clear, and radiant liquor in the cup, Wei Yin was overjoyed, believing it was a gift directly bestowed by Guanyin herself. Moreover, the newly made tea leaves appeared dark, lustrous, and robust, prompting him to name the brew "Tieguanyin"—meaning "Iron Goddess of Mercy." The other story traces the origins of Tieguanyin even further back, to the reign of Emperor Qianlong during the Qing Dynasty. It is said that in Anxi County, Fujian Province, there was a tea plantation owned by the Wang family. Nestled within the estate was a charming pavilion surrounded by a covered veranda on all four sides, affectionately known as "Nanxuan" (South Pavilion). Wang Shishi, the head of the family, often invited his literary friends to gather at Nanxuan for leisurely tea sessions, where they would compose poetry amid the serene ambiance. One day, Wang Shishi discovered a small tea sapling sprouting beneath a large boulder near the pavilion—distinctly different from the other tea plants in the garden. Delighted by this unusual find, he promptly transplanted the sapling into his tea field and devoted himself to cultivating it meticulously. As the young tree matured, Wang Shishi carefully processed its tender buds and leaves into a tea renowned for its mellow, fragrant, and exceptionally refreshing flavor. Years later, Wang Shishi brought this exceptional tea to Beijing, presenting it to his close friend Fang Bao, who served as the Right Vice Minister of the Ministry of Rites. After enjoying the tea together, Emperor Qianlong, deeply knowledgeable about tea culture, marveled at its remarkable qualities: "This tea is not only dark and lustrous but also remarkably heavy—almost like iron! Its aroma is exquisite, and its appearance is truly elegant, reminiscent of the revered Guanyin herself. Let us call this tea 'Tieguanyin Tea'!" From that moment on, Tieguanyin tea quickly gained fame and became celebrated as one of China's most cherished and revered teas.

　　Carbon-roasted aged Tieguanyin is made by taking the richly fragrant Tieguanyin as its base and then undergoing a second carbon-roasting process using wooden charcoal. The environment and charcoal fire used during roasting are meticulously controlled: the process must take place inside a house with an earthen floor, where the surrounding walls are plastered with Sichuan pepper-infused mud, and the doors and windows are entirely crafted from wood—no metal components of any kind are allowed, not even a single iron nail.

　　Carbon-roasted aged Tieguanyin is also popularly known as "old tea" among the people. During the Qing Dynasty, a poem titled "Min Tea Ballad" sings: "Though rain-before tea may be fine, it’s still considered too fresh; its fiery edge hasn’t mellowed—best avoid tasting it right away. Yet, when stored properly, this deep-red brew triples in value, and every household proudly boasts about its year-old excellence." Clearly, even back then, ancient folks recognized the medicinal and health-promoting benefits of aged tea. In Anxi, a local legend about aged Tieguanyin has been passed down through generations: Back in the Qing Dynasty, there was a wealthy man named Lin Fulong whose digestive system was severely troubled. One day, he experienced intense abdominal bloating and couldn’t eat a single bite. Despite seeking help from numerous doctors, his condition showed no improvement. Distraught, his family rushed to their ancestral home to pray for divine protection. That very night, Lin Fulong had a dream in which a celestial being revealed a secret remedy to him. The next morning, following the guidance from his dream, his family meticulously searched their ancestral house—and miraculously discovered an old, jet-black tea hidden in a corner. They brewed it for Lin Fulong to drink, and astonishingly, his chronic bloating vanished completely. Indeed, many tea farmers in Anxi have long maintained the tradition of storing tea annually in ceramic jars, treating colds, fevers, or other ailments with these time-honored, aged teas as natural remedies.

　　Carbon-roasted aged Tieguanyin is a true gem among teas. As the family sips this exquisite brew, fragrant tea smoke rises gracefully, filling the air with its delicate, lingering aroma—a rich, timeless tea experience that captivates the senses.