Legendary Lady Lan, the Ancestor of Tea

　　While planting indigo, Taomu also grows tea.

　　Lu Yu’s *Cha Jing* states: “The practice of tea as a beverage originated with Emperor Shennong and became known through Duke Zhou of Lu,” highlighting that the discovery and early use of tea trace back to Shennong’s era in prehistoric times. However, the *Cha Jing* begins by declaring, “Tea is the noblest tree of the South.” Yet we know that Shennong Yan Di, revered as the ancestor of the Central Plains, actually hailed from a people who were originally nomadic or semi-nomadic—rooted in northern regions. This suggests that during the long span of prehistory, the true originator of discovering and harnessing this “noble tree of the South” was likely not Shennong alone. Furthermore, in their book *Twenty-One Lectures on Tea and Tea Culture*, Cheng Qikun and others interpret “the South” as referring specifically to China’s southwestern region, leading them to narrowly conclude that the ancient Bashu areas of Sichuan and Hubei were, in fact, the cradle of China’s tea industry and tea culture.

　　If literature research could be combined with fieldwork, the conclusions drawn might be more comprehensive. Unfortunately, the southeastern coastal region has long remained outside the focus of tea historians. Yet, if these researchers had visited Fuding, they would have heard the legendary tale of "Tai Mu Tea Cultivation for Healing": During the reign of Emperor Yao, a young peasant woman from Caibao Village at the foot of Tai Mu Mountain fled into the mountains to escape war and settled there, earning a living by cultivating indigo plants. Known for her kindness and generosity, she was affectionately called "Lady Lan." That year, measles swept through the area around Tai Mu Mountain, claiming the lives of one innocent child after another—deeply saddening Lady Lan’s compassionate heart. One night, guided by the divine advice of Nanji Xianweng, the Immortal of the South Pole, she climbed to the top of Hongxue Cave and discovered a unique little tea tree thriving amidst the dense underbrush. Following the immortal’s instructions, she carefully picked the tender buds and leaves from the tree, carried them to each village, and taught the locals how to brew tea specifically for their children. Thanks to her wisdom and determination, the villagers were finally able to overcome the deadly epidemic.

　　Everyone knows that legends aren’t always true or entirely reliable; yet, legends are the shadows and reflections of history. Through them, we can uncover the insights hidden within the stories—precisely why later generations have cherished passing down ancient tales orally, as this is also where the enduring vitality of these myths lies. This beautiful legend reveals two key truths: first, Fuding’s tea-growing history is as ancient as the legendary figure “Taibao”; second, the tea from Mount Taibao was once used to heal people in their most critical moments of illness. This aligns perfectly with the traditional account of Shennong tasting hundreds of herbs, encountering seventy-two poisonous plants daily, until he discovered tea—which miraculously neutralized the toxins. These stories underscore that China’s earliest ancestors likely stumbled upon tea quite by accident while searching for edible plants and medicinal remedies. Initially valued for its healing properties, tea gradually evolved into a practical and eventually beloved beverage enjoyed by people across generations.

　　In July 2009, the famous writer from Fujian, Wang Hongjia, after listening to the legend of Tai Mu Niangniang, said with deep feeling: "For more than 4,000 years, the clear sky and the long road have been passed down to this day. I have begun to realize that within this vigorous folk legend flows a long-standing story about the origin of tea." (From "China Has a Sandu'ao," hereafter the same.)

　　This tea tree has bravely withstood frost and snow at heights of hundreds of feet, enduring cycles of life and revival over the course of a thousand years. Nurtured by gentle clouds and mist, quenched by dew and spring water, it continues to stand tall and graceful atop the Hongxue Cave, nestled beside a single tile on Mount Taibao—becoming the progenitor of "Fuding Da Bai Tea." Legend has it that in the last century, a reckless, greedy, yet seemingly "clever" administrative official at the mountain's base abused his power to fell this majestic tree. Remarkably, instead of chopping it down entirely, he ingeniously crafted a teacup from the very trunk itself, using it to brew tea. Strangely enough, even without actual tea leaves, the resulting "tea"—or rather, infused water—still exuded an exquisite, fragrant aroma. Fortunately, the tree was spared being uprooted entirely; over time, new shoots sprouted from its ancient roots, thriving once again with unmatched vitality and beauty. Today, this remarkable tea tree is proudly recognized in the *Chinese Wild Tea Tree Germplasm Resource Catalog*, featured in the comprehensive *Encyclopedia of Chinese Tea*.

　　Mr. Wang Hongjia said: "Wild tea trees aren't limited to the southwest of China—many regions in the south also boast them, such as the towering ancient wild tea trees found in places like Wuyi Mountain's Da Hong Pao and Fuding’s Da Bai tea. While cultivating tea and enjoying tea beverages are human inventions, the mere presence of wild tea trees doesn’t necessarily mean that people began growing tea there. Perhaps the early inhabitants of Bashu and Minyue independently developed and refined the art of tea drinking? Or could it be that China actually had just one central origin for tea cultivation? Whether the answer is yes or no, further, more thorough exploration is still needed. Personally, I believe we shouldn’t overlook the deep-rooted history of Fuding white tea."

　　He believes that the story of Lady Lan being guided by a divine sage simply means that people already knew mountain tea could clear heat and detoxify long before Lady Lan herself. Viewing the "divine sage" as an ancient figure like Shennong is perfectly valid! Thanks to Lady Lan’s role in preventing and controlling childhood measles—a disease that once posed a serious threat—her method of harvesting mountain tea and brewing it into a medicinal decoction spread widely. This, in turn, led to the transition of tea cultivation from purely medicinal use to everyday consumption. Such is the tale from the era of Goddess Taibao… While tea drinking was already practiced in Sichuan during the Shang and Zhou dynasties, the legendary deeds of Goddess Taibao actually took place in the time of Emperor Yao—making her story an even earlier, timeless legend.

　　So he hopes that one day, the people of Fuding will solemnly inscribe beneath the towering statue of Taibai Niangniang—The Mother of Tea to Humanity.

　　It is gratifying to note that today, the people of Fuding, who have formed an inseparable bond with tea, are propagating this ancient tea tree through cuttings—using its genetic lineage as the foundation—and leveraging the region's uniquely favorable climate and soil conditions. As a result, tea cultivation has flourished across the Taibao Mountains, earning Fuding the titles of "China's Home of Famous Teas," "China's Home of White Tea," and "China's Cultural Hub for Tea." Thanks to their dedication, countless lives have benefited, and Fuding’s vibrant tea culture continues to shine brightly—surely bringing peace and joy to the spirit of Lady Taibao herself!