The Historical Context, Current Status, and Preservation of Fuding White Tea-Making Techniques
Author:
Feng Wenxi
Release date:
2012-05-29
Compared to tangible cultural heritage, intangible cultural heritage refers to an invisible yet invaluable form of cultural legacy. Specifically, it encompasses the diverse traditional cultural expressions and practices—such as languages, folk literature, folk performing arts, time-honored craft skills, community-based festivals, rituals, and celebrations—as well as knowledge and practices related to nature and the cosmos—all of which are closely tied to the daily lives of various ethnic groups across generations. Given that countries and provinces are actively working to nominate intangible cultural projects for recognition, protecting this intangible heritage has increasingly become a priority for communities and policymakers alike.
Fuding is a coastal tourism and industrial city located on the border between Fujian and Zhejiang provinces, boasting a long-standing historical heritage. As part of the Northeastern Coastal Region of Western Fujian, it is home to numerous intangible cultural heritages. Among these, the traditional crafts developed over generations by the people of Fuding—crafted out of their enduring struggle for survival and livelihood—are particularly precious and highly valued. In particular, the art of making Fuding white tea, which lies at the heart of the white tea production process, is celebrated for its natural, scientific, and superior qualities. Rooted in centuries of tradition yet continuously evolving through innovation, this craft uniquely blends scientific precision with artistic flair, making it an extraordinary cultural treasure.
The art of making Fuding white tea originated in Mount Taibao of Fuding and is now primarily practiced across 17 townships—including Diandou, Panxi, Bailin, Guanyang, Die Shi, Guanling, Qianqi, Jiayang, Dianxia, Qinyu, and Xiamen—that surround the scenic Taibao Mountain range. Each township boasts its own unique techniques, passed down through local enterprises and traditional artisan workshops, preserving the distinct craftsmanship of white tea production. However, for too long, people have focused solely on the exceptional quality of white tea itself, largely overlooking the rich cultural heritage embedded in the entire process of Fuding’s white tea-making tradition. As a result, there remains a significant gap in recognizing and cultivating this as a distinctive cultural brand. No wonder some scholars have remarked that tea without culture is no better than a mere leaf—after all, what hasn’t yet been discovered doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist. Intangible cultural heritage, in fact, goes beyond tangible artifacts; it involves uncovering the deeper, often unseen layers beneath—their historical roots, the evolving contexts of their practice, and even the underlying cultural phenomena that may already be deeply ingrained in people’s minds but remain unacknowledged. By identifying and celebrating these hidden treasures, we can not only preserve this invaluable legacy but also ensure its continued transmission and revitalization for future generations. This article takes Fuding white tea’s intricate crafting techniques as its central focus, offering a thoughtful exploration of how these traditions embody both cultural depth and practical significance.
I. The Historical Origins and Current State of the Artisanal Techniques for Producing Fuding White Tea
Folk traditions preserve a vast array of traditional handicraft techniques, recording the traces of our ancestors' creative lives. Through this intangible and living form, people can understand the local historical background and cultural context of the time. These insights highlight important historical conditions and longitudinal historical backgrounds, becoming a crucial aspect of intangible cultural heritage research. We believe that the inheritance of Fuding white tea making techniques is closely related to the history of white tea. It has unique production methods and has undergone a journey from the folk to the city, from workshops to factories, and from legend to science. The history of white tea production can be traced back to the era of Shennong tasting hundreds of herbs in ancient times, when people used the natural withering process of tea leaves, an ancient method for processing medicinal herbs. Fuding has a history of using tea for more than 4,000 years, initially for medicinal purposes. Because tea trees sprout new buds seasonally, to have tea available at any time, people dried and stored the tender young tea leaves they picked, marking the beginning of tea processing. According to tea utensils unearthed at the site of Wenma County (an ancient name for some counties in eastern Fujian, including Fuding) and related historical materials, tea production and consumption existed in eastern Fujian during the Eastern Jin period. By the Tang Dynasty, Lu Yu's "The Classic of Tea" recorded: "Three hundred li east of Yongjia County is White Tea Mountain," which scholars identify as Mount Taimu in Fuding. This shows that the "white tea" variety existed in Changxi County (to which Fuding belonged) during the Tang Dynasty. From the Song Dynasty onward, white tea was recorded from the folk to the imperial court. The name "white tea" also appeared in the Song Dynasty's "Dongxi Shicha Lu": "There are seven names of tea, one is white leaf tea, highly valued by the people... the folk consider it an auspicious tea." According to the "Fujian Local Gazetteer" and the modern famous tea expert Professor Zhang Tianfu's "Research on Fujian White Tea," white tea was first created in Fuding in the early Qing Jiaqing period. At that time, silver needle tea was made from the robust buds of the "Fuding Caicha" variety. Around the sixth year of Xianfeng (1857), after Fuding selected and bred a good variety of Da Bai tea trees, from the twelfth year of Guangxu (1885), silver needle tea was made from Da Bai tea buds and called Baihao Yinzhen (White Hair Silver Needle). This opened the first chapter of white tea production history in Fuding. Later, white peony, Gongmei, Shoumei, and new-style white teas were also produced, greatly enriching the theory and practice of white tea making techniques.
Fuding white tea inherits an ancient drying method. According to folklore and local Fuding records, the Wu family of Bailin Cuijiao in Fuding is one of the main lineages producing white tea. The Wu family of Bailin Cuijiao descends from King Fuchai of the Wu Kingdom during the Spring and Autumn period. They prospered by producing white tea during the Qing Qianlong era. Their large Qing Dynasty ancestral residence and related tea-making tools are still preserved today. According to research by Professor Zhang Tianfu, a leading figure in the contemporary tea industry, another lineage exists in Doudian Bailiu. Around 1857 in the Qing Dynasty, Chen Huan and Zhang Xiaqin from Doudian Bailiu discovered the "Lüxueya" tea tree and transplanted it for propagation at home. In the third year of Guangxu (1875), Zhou Kai Chen from Huanggang also transplanted and cultivated white tea trees. So far, due to the long passage of time, it is difficult to clarify the inheritance lineage of the first-generation inheritors such as the Wu, Chen, Zhang, and Zhou families. Their inheritance situation requires further investigation. Another branch of Bailiu white tea inheritance is the Meishan school, which originated from the Mei family. The Mei family’s ancestor possibly migrated from Daji Township under Jingning She Autonomous County, Lishui City, Zhejiang Province, but this needs verification. According to the current "Mei Family Genealogy" records, the 33rd generation descendant Mei Bozhen started by planting, producing, and managing white tea. Mei Bozhen, courtesy name Buxiang, also known as Xiaoxi and Dingkui, was born in 1875 (the Yihai year of Guangxu) and died in 1947 (the Dinghai year of the Republic of China). He was the fifth son of Mei Yiqiu. According to Mei Xiuqing, a descendant of the Mei family and author of "A Brief Biography of Mr. Xiaoxi," Bozhen made a living from the tea industry in his youth and was trusted in the tea community. In the 28th year of the Republic of China, he was recommended as the general manager and deputy director of the newly established Fuding Tea Industry Demonstration Factory. In the 29th year, he served as the joint procurement manager for ten tea factories in Fujian Province. In the following decades, he traveled as a tea merchant in Southeast Asia, including Singapore, gaining fame at home and abroad. In his later years, Mei Bozhen returned to Bailiu and organized his white tea production manuscripts. The extant "Xiaoxi Petition" manuscript, written in his own hand on the "General Ledger," is the most detailed and reliable. It states: "At that time, I was burdened with a small debt, owning only half of a small shop and a few tea garden plots, with no other business... Fortunately, my father-in-law Mr. Chen gave me dozens of white-haired tea (i.e., white tea in Fuding dialect) seedlings and urged me to clear the mountain and plant them. Within a few years, the cuttings multiplied, and in less than ten years, I could earn 60 to 70 yuan." When he was 66, Zhuang Wanfang, then director of the Fujian Provincial Construction Department, inscribed a plaque reading "Yuanwan Qiying" and presented it to Mei Bozhen. This plaque is still preserved in the home of his great-grandson Mei Zongliang. Based on the Mei family genealogy and the actual inheritance of white tea, the lineage of Fuding white tea craftsmanship in the Mei family can be outlined as follows: Mei Bozhen is the first-generation inheritor; the second generation consists of his four children—Mei Yufang, Mei Yuhou, Mei Yuhuai, and Mei Yuyin—though their tea-making experiences are not clearly recorded. The third generation, descendants of the "Yu" generation, are known as the "Xiang" generation, many of whom inherited the family business, cultivating, producing, and managing white tea in Bailiu. Notably, Mei Xiangjing, born in 1928, is among the more accomplished. The fourth generation is also numerous, with current key figures including Mei Chuanbin, Mei Chuanyong, Mei Chuanhao, Mei Chuanzhi, and Mei Xianchun, who continue to actively preserve and develop Fuding white tea craftsmanship.
II. Quality Characteristics of Fuding White Tea Production Techniques
The qualitative characteristics of intangible cultural heritage directly determine its value. An intangible cultural asset’s quality is shaped by its many interconnected components—each element both stands alone and relies on others, creating a harmonious, unified whole. We believe the first defining feature of Fuding White Tea’s production technique lies in its use of unique, high-quality tea varieties. The lush green Xueya tea trees from Mount Taibao serve as the ancestral stock for Fuding White Tea. Growing nestled deep within the mountain’s secluded ravines and misty valleys, these trees absorb the essence of nature—bathed in ethereal clouds and nourished by the earth’s purest gifts—culminating in their distinctive, unparalleled excellence. Today, the primary raw materials for Fuding White Tea include the Fuding Dabai, Fuding Dahao, and Caicha varieties. These cultivars share common traits: their leaves exhibit a vibrant yellow-green hue with a glossy sheen; their tender buds are plump, robust, and exquisitely delicate; the leaves themselves are thick yet remarkably soft to the touch, adorned generously with long, fine white down. Teas crafted from these three superior varieties boast exceptional qualities: visible silver tips, a pale white appearance, and a fresh, mellow, and invigorating taste. They release a delicate, floral aroma alongside a subtle, lingering fragrance. When brewed, the tea liquor shines golden and offers a rich, full-bodied flavor that lingers sweetly on the palate. Another hallmark of Fuding White Tea is its time-honored, ancient production methods. In fact, the earliest tea-making techniques employed by our ancestors closely mirrored those used for preserving medicinal herbs: simply drying or air-drying freshly picked, tender tea leaves to lock in their natural freshness—a practice that essentially mirrors today’s “withering” process. Fuding White Tea finds its spiritual birthplace in the enchanting landscapes of Mount Taibao. According to oral traditions passed down through generations and documented in local folklore, during the reign of Emperor Yao, the revered Lady Taibao discovered a pristine white tea tree in Hongxue Cave atop Mount Taibao. She carefully harvested and roasted the leaves, using this exquisite tea to treat measles—a testament to the tea’s profound healing properties. This “roasting” method, deeply rooted in ancient herbal preparation practices, remains integral to Fuding White Tea’s traditional craft. During the Ming Dynasty, scholar Tian Yiheng eloquently captured the art of white tea production in his work *Cha Xiao Pin*: "Among all tea-making methods, firing comes second; sun-drying, however, is supreme—it aligns most closely with nature and eliminates any lingering ‘smoky’ flavors." Clearly, sun-drying remains one of the finest, most authentic techniques for crafting tea, preserving the tea buds’ pure, unadulterated flavors while honoring the timeless elegance of ancient tea-making traditions. Finally, modern production techniques for Fuding White Tea continue to evolve, embracing science, sustainability, and premium quality. For instance, Bai Hao Yin Zhen—the renowned Silver Needle variety—is made exclusively from plump, single-bud shoots; Bai Mu Dan, or White Peony, uses one bud with either one or two leaves; and Gong Mei (also known as Shou Mei) incorporates one bud accompanied by two or three leaves. Central to the production process are two key methods: natural withering and controlled, multi-stage withering, complemented by meticulous steps such as sorting and gentle baking. Mastery of these intricate techniques is essential, as even slight deviations can significantly diminish the tea’s inherent value and artisanal charm.
III. The Value Embodied in the Fuding White Tea Production Technique
How intangible cultural heritage embodies the "three characteristics"—scientific, cultural, and artistic qualities—is a question that must be explored. These three elements are the core components that define the value of intangible culture. While not every aspect needs to be fully present in our specific case, at least one or two of these characteristics should stand out clearly, with others serving as complementary features. In particular, the craftsmanship behind Fuding White Tea production vividly highlights its scientific value, making it an indispensable element. This is evident when we examine the meticulous process of crafting white tea, which showcases distinct scientific principles. The profound significance of this craft can be understood from several perspectives: First, the traditional method of naturally air-drying tea leaves—known as "withering"—has been practiced since ancient times. In doing so, it not only preserves but also builds upon China’s rich cultural heritage in traditional medicine, carrying forward the legacy of ancient white tea culture while adapting it for modern times. White tea is a unique tea variety native to China, and historical records have long documented its remarkable health benefits, such as cooling properties, detoxification effects, and even its use in treating measles. For instance, during the Qing Dynasty, the renowned scholar Zhou Lianggong noted in his work *Min Xiaoji*: "Bai Hao Yin Zhen, produced in Hongxue Cave on Mount Taibao, possesses a cooling nature and is as effective as rhinoceros horn—it is a divine remedy for combating measles." As a result, white tea has long been cherished by tea enthusiasts as an essential tool for health and wellness. With advancements in science and technology, Western medical research has further confirmed white tea’s potent abilities to aid in detoxification, prevent cancer, and even support cancer treatment as a valuable adjunct therapy. As one of China’s most celebrated traditional export teas, white tea is widely regarded as one of the most harmonious and health-promoting beverages available today. This recognition underscores its practical value as an intangible cultural heritage, providing solid evidence for its scientific merit. After all, if a cultural practice lacks tangible utility, it cannot truly qualify as a heritage worth preserving. Fuding White Tea, as one of China’s six major tea categories, stands out uniquely for its competitive edge and global influence, making it a cornerstone of Fuding’s economy. Rooted in the region’s pristine natural landscapes and masterful tea-making techniques, Fuding has cultivated a distinctive tea culture deeply intertwined with local identity, flavor, and tradition. This vibrant tea culture has not only fueled economic growth but also propelled social progress across the area. Moreover, the artistry of white tea production seamlessly blends centuries-old historical wisdom with contemporary ecological awareness, celebrating women’s contributions, embracing modern aesthetics, and promoting holistic well-being. Its elegant, refreshing aroma, combined with graceful, feminine tea ceremonies, offers a sensory experience that resonates deeply with people’s growing desire for nature-inspired, eco-friendly lifestyles.
IV. Survey and Analysis of the Endangered Status of Fuding White Tea Production Techniques
As an intangible cultural heritage, great emphasis is placed on its uniqueness, as it represents the unique form of each intangible cultural individual. When uniqueness is combined with the concept of being "endangered," the intangible cultural heritage's importance and value become even more prominent, embodying the principle that "rarity makes something precious." Therefore, based on continuous investigation and research, we pay more attention to the endangered status of the Fuding white tea production techniques. We also consider cultivation techniques as an integral part of white tea production skills, which to some extent are decisive factors in forming the excellent quality of white tea. During the discovery, inheritance, and creation of white tea, due to historical factors, the ancient transplantation techniques lack detailed records, which has affected further research on white tea production. The "Lüxueya" tea tree in Hongxue Cave on Mount Taimu is the original "mother plant" of Fuding white tea production and an important genetic source for white tea development. The varieties currently used in Fuding white tea production—Fuding Dabai, Fuding Dahao, and Caicha—are all propagated from this plant. So far, no other original "Lüxueya" plants have been found in the Fuding area. Therefore, the "Lüxueya" is the source and is extremely important and precious. However, only one natural high-quality tea plant remains, which was once cut down; the current tree grew from shoots after that event. Being the only one and growing in a tourist area, its living environment now faces new challenges.
The inheritance of white tea production techniques has experienced gaps and discontinuities. Since its creation, Fuding white tea has been a pillar industry of the region, with widespread tea planting and tea-making in rural areas. However, the main lines of inheritance among practitioners have diverged, and descendants of those recorded as inheritors of white tea skills often cannot fully master the ancestral knowledge. Over the past century, Fuding white tea has gone through ups and downs, and the inheritance of white tea production techniques has been intermittent. In the past, there were many handmade tea workshops in Fuding’s rural communities, making white tea production popular among the masses. With social development and in the new historical period, tea-making techniques have shifted towards scientific research, concentrating in factories and enterprises, while traditional folk ancient tea-making methods coexist with both inheritance and loss. How to fully master the ancient folk tea-making techniques and integrate them with modern science and technology is a new challenge. With changes in times, industrial development, and social progress, the natural ecological environment of white tea has changed, which to some extent affects tea development and poses challenges to white tea production. Preventing harmful substances from entering tea-growing areas and cultivating pollution-free production bases are new issues that need to be addressed for the inheritance and development of these techniques.
V. Seeking Protective Measures for Fuding White Tea Production Techniques Amidst Development
An important approach to safeguarding intangible cultural heritage lies in preserving and passing down traditions—balancing both preservation and inheritance. The art of making Fuding white tea has thrived through this dual process, evolving while remaining deeply rooted in its cultural essence. Crucially, its development depends not only on fostering a supportive "soft environment" for protection but also on continuously enhancing the necessary "hard infrastructure." In recent years, we have intensified efforts to implement robust protective measures. As one of the most natural and authentic tea-making techniques in tea culture, Fuding white tea also boasts significant potential for technological innovation. Moreover, its intricate production process is intricately tied to local natural and cultural factors, making it a quintessential example of traditional craftsmanship. Therefore, ensuring the confidentiality of Fuding white tea’s unique production techniques is essential—it helps preserve the craft’s independence and integrity. To protect this invaluable heritage, we initiated an application process under the Intangible Cultural Heritage program, officially recognizing the profound significance of Fuding white tea’s production methods. This recognition was further highlighted during annual China White Tea Culture Festivals, where the craft was showcased to audiences nationwide. In August 2008, the Fuding Municipal Government proudly included Fuding white tea production in the city’s first batch of Intangible Cultural Heritage List, cementing its status as a prominent cultural brand. To deepen our commitment to preservation, we’ve dispatched specialized teams to thoroughly document the original production processes at their source, ensuring these time-honored techniques are meticulously recorded and safeguarded for future generations. Additionally, we organized the China White Tea Summit, where expert recommendations were gathered to develop a comprehensive and feasible conservation plan. We’re also ramping up research into Fuding white tea production, investing more resources into studying and refining its techniques. This effort aims not only to maintain but also to elevate the craft, driving continuous innovation in white tea-making practices and ultimately producing higher-quality teas that meet global standards. Furthermore, we’re actively engaging tea enterprises and farmers, encouraging them to embrace and nurture the legacy of traditional white tea-making methods. At the same time, we’re expanding white tea cultivation areas, creating optimal growing conditions that support both the craft and the quality of the final product. To ensure the long-term sustainability of this heritage, we’re establishing rigorous archival systems, from managing technical innovations and safety protocols to securing dedicated spaces for storage and preservation. Finally, we’re taking proactive steps to enhance the cultural literacy of current and future practitioners, empowering them with deeper knowledge of their craft. Through strategic marketing campaigns—including digital platforms like websites and TV media—we’re amplifying awareness of Fuding white tea’s unique identity. Additionally, we’ve established a dedicated Tea Industry Association to foster collaboration among stakeholders, promoting in-depth research and scholarly exploration. By publishing theoretical articles on white tea production, we aim to refine and expand the existing body of knowledge, laying a solid foundation for the ongoing evolution and success of Fuding white tea’s rich cultural legacy.
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