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Fuding White Tea, Fragrance Lingering on Mount Taibao

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2012-09-04

  White tea is the earliest of the six major tea categories to be crafted. In ancient times, during the Zhou Dynasty, people already employed a simple processing method—drying tea leaves either in the sun or in the shade—that closely resembles the techniques used today to produce modern white tea. This practice allowed them to preserve the leaves for various purposes, such as ritual offerings, medicinal treatments, spiritual retreats, and even everyday tea-drinking occasions. We refer to these ancient teas as "ancient white tea." Legend has it that Lady Lan "sun-dried the tender buds of tea to treat measles," a practice that can be seen as the very first prototype of what we now know as white tea.

  More than a thousand years ago, Lu Yu’s *The Classic of Tea*, citing the *Yongjia Tu Jing*, recorded: “Three hundred li east of Yongjia County lies Mount Baicha.” Professor Chen Chuan, in his *A Comprehensive History of the Tea Industry*, noted: “The ‘300 li east of Yongjia’ actually refers to the sea—this is likely a misinterpretation of ‘300 li south.’ In fact, ‘300 li south’ points to Fuding in Fujian, the very region where white tea originated.” Clearly, the “Mount Baicha” mentioned here corresponds to the numerous mountain ranges within Fuding, most notably represented by Mount Tai’ao.

  Since ancient times, famous mountains have been renowned for producing exceptional teas. These premium teas owe their quality first and foremost to the superior genetics of the tea varieties themselves—genetics that are deeply tied to the region's unique geography and climate. In Fuding, the landscape features a distinctive topography: higher elevations in the northwest and gradually lower terrain toward the southeast, with vast mountainous areas exceeding 500 meters above sea level. This ideal setting provides the perfect natural habitat for cultivating some of China’s finest tea cultivars. Nature has further blessed Fuding with two nationally recognized, high-quality tea varieties: Fuding Da Bai Cha and Fuding Da Hao Cha. Moreover, the harmonious interplay among Fuding’s distinctive cultural, geographical, ecological, and phenological conditions, combined seamlessly with the region’s time-honored, expertly refined tea-making techniques, has given rise to the exquisite Fuding White Tea.

  In Fuding, nestled in the Taibao Mountain region, Fuding white tea has been intimately intertwined with local life since ancient times. A quick glance through poetry and literature about Taibao Mountain reveals a rich tapestry of references—such as Ming Dynasty scholar Chen Zhongqin’s "Record of a Journey to Taibao Mountain," which notes: "Among the bamboo groves, one spots towering peaks resting beneath the sky; these are known as Stone Dragons, also called Die Shi An. Though the monastic community here is sizable, most monks earn their living by raising bees and selling tea. While this practice may not strictly adhere to Buddhist precepts, it helps sustain the impoverished monks and even fosters a sense of unity within the community." Even the monks themselves relied on "raising bees and selling tea" as a vital means of supporting their livelihoods—and this alone underscores how, by at least the Ming Dynasty, tea had already become an indispensable part of the economic and daily lives of Taibao Mountain’s residents. Further exploring the works of Ming poets like Xie Zhaozhe, who penned lines such as "As tea pickers descend after their morning trek, the temple monks return from alms-seeking, still drowsy," or "I ask the monk where he’s gone—perhaps still out gathering tea leaves," and "Wild monkeys scramble for early spring fruits, while young children gather dew-kissed tea buds," we glimpse how, deep within the passage of time, tea had seamlessly woven itself into the fabric of everyday existence, touching the lives of people—from monks and villagers to men, women, elders, and children alike.

  Minglin Zushu’s "Record of a Journey to Mount Taibao" notes: "I sat cross-legged by the stream, fetched water using a bamboo kettle, and brewed Taibao tea, sipping it slowly." Similarly, Qing scholar Xie Jinluan, in his "Record of Shuyu Cave," writes: "Returning once more, I drew water directly from the stream, rinsed the teapot, heated the spring water over stones, and settled down on a rock to quietly enjoy the moment. Soon after, as the sun passed noon, the tea had steeped a second time. … Meanwhile, the young attendant continued boiling leaves to brew fresh tea." We also find in Wang Sugong’s "Record of a Journey to Mount Taibao": "Entering the Seven-Star Cave, one discovers Rongcheng Dan Well nestled within. Springwater trickles steadily into the well from cracks in the rocks—so clear that visitors often cup their hands to collect it, using it to prepare ‘Green Snow Sprouts’ tea." Finally, in Minglin Aimin’s poem "Dreaming of Mount Taibao," we read: "A monk can fast for days without food, yet he brews tea effortlessly right atop the stone." And in Lin Zushu’s "Poem Visiting the Monk at Tianyuan Hermitage on Bishan Mountain," there’s this verse: "Beneath the bamboo, mountain winds carry the fragrant aroma of brewing tea; outside, citrus fruits glow alongside fiery maples and red oaks." “Peng” and “zhu” were ancient methods of preparing tea. After reading these poetic passages, we can easily picture the scene: towering peaks resembling masterpieces of art, verdant bamboo and trees casting soothing shade, murmuring streams weaving through the landscape, gentle mountain breezes drifting softly—sitting together to brew tea under such serene, otherworldly surroundings—it truly feels like stepping into a realm of Taibao’s divine tranquility!

  According to research documented in the "Chinese Famous Tea Records," Tai Mu Lüxueya was already regarded as a prized tea during the Ming Dynasty. In his "Min Chan Lu Yi," Guo Baicang of the Qing Dynasty noted: "In the tea-growing regions of Funning Prefecture, there is Tai Mu Lüxueya." Similarly, Wu Zhenchen, also writing during the Qing, remarked in "Min You Ou Ji": "Tai Mu Mountain also produces it, and among all varieties, Lüxueya is considered the finest." Meanwhile, Zhou Lianggong, in his "Min Xiao Ji," stated: "Tai Mu Mountain is home to Lüxueya tea." Later, during the Republic of China era, Mr. Zhuo Jianzhou, referencing Zhou Lianggong’s quote in "Tai Mu Shan Quan Zhi · Fang Wu," elaborated further: "Lüxueya, now commonly known as Bai Hao, boasts an extraordinary aroma and color—and those harvested from Hongxue Cave are especially revered. It has cooling properties, comparable in efficacy to rhinoceros horn, making it a celebrated remedy for measles. This tea is even exported overseas, fetching prices rivaling gold."

  Notably, the poetic name "Lü Xue Ya" was coined by Xiong Mingyu, a distinguished minister of the Ministry of War during the Ming Dynasty. On May 12, 2012, Professor Xu Guangtai from the Institute of History at Taiwan’s Tsinghua University made his third visit to Mount Taimu and confirmed that the two cliffside inscriptions—“Hongxue Cave” and “Yunbiao”—were indeed penned by Xiong Mingyu himself. In a special article he published (featured on page 6 of the Fuding Weekly on May 16, 2012), Professor Xu highlighted how, during the Wanli era, Xiong Mingyu, who was labeled an adherent of the Donglin faction, was reassigned to Fujian as the Inspector-General of Military Affairs, overseeing defense along the Funing Road. It was during this period that he twice ascended Mount Taimu—in March and May of the 48th year of the Wanli reign (1620)—leaving behind the iconic inscriptions "Hongxue Cave" and "Yunbiao." Given Xiong Mingyu’s lifelong passion for tea, it’s worth noting that he previously spearheaded the development of Luojiao Rock Tea in Changxing, even bestowing upon it the name "Luojiao Tea," as documented in his seminal work, *Luojiao Cha Shu*. This text was later included in his collection *Lü Xue Lou Ji*, published during his tenure in Funing. Based on these historical connections, Professor Xu Guangtai firmly concludes that the origin of the renowned "Lü Xue Ya" tea name on Mount Taimu is directly linked to Xiong Mingyu.

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